Thursday 5 April 2012

Easter Island the northern Loop

Jumped on the bike and headed off in roughly the right direction, after several red earth roads and even more dead ends i managed to get on the right track. I did stop off at the Museum (which was a disappointment compared to what is outside). A few interesting facts about the Island; one being that it started as 3 volcanoes 3,000,000 years ago but only became 1 island 300,000 years ago. It also predicts it´s demise in the none to distant future as it is on the subduction plate that will disappear under Chile. They haven´t started cancelling flights yet so you still have time to get here.



The first port of call was to Ahu Ahivi where these 7 Moai are reputed to be the original explorers who found the place some time ago, obviously not Germans as there were no towels on the altar. These chaps face towards the setting sun at Equinox apparently which is slightly different to the others (don´t hold me to these facts). Oh the other thing is, when you die they lay you out like a spit-roast and let the sun burn the flesh from your body.

Yet again, as "Norman no mates" on tour I get asked to take photos of happy honeymooners and miserable middle aged couples.  Today was different - 4 Japanese tourists. If only they knew my reputation with a camera!

After thisI headed up the worst dirt road yet. Big ruts and mounds. I was glad to be on the little Yamaha as I think I would have struggled with the heavy Beamer.
This is Panau Pau the quarry on the island where all the Topnots are made. It is very red volcanic rock (high iron content I assume). They weigh several tons each and were transported to the Moai so that they could look their best on Sundays at church.
This and the main quarry were obviously left in a hurry. I can imagine the Birdman Union called the brothers out one evening, downed tools and never returned. A bit like British Leyland in the 70´s.

Back down the Wibbly Wobbly way and on to  a beautiful spot Ana Karenina (no it wasn´that but i can´t remember it exactly). You walk through a coconut palm grove to reach a white coral beach which is at odds with the rest of the black rocky coast. Overlooking the bathers are another group of Moai - 4 sporting sun hats which is a good idea in this climate.

The water is warm and clear but there is little shade, so lunch is taken under the palm trees. A few families serve basic picnic lunches - I am not too sure about Cheese & Tuna empanadas though. It also gave me a chance to read more of my book, which happens to be Robinson Crusoe - the surroundings couldn´t have been more perfect for such a story.

That completed the loop and so I headed back to town and delivered the bike back to the shop.

I then headed down to the small harbour and had a local beer. A Canadian introduced himself as the Skipper of a 30 foot yacht "Rough Bounds" anchored out to sea with 2 other yachts (1 British, I French)  and 2 catamarans (Aussie & S African).
They all watch the boats like hawks as 3 have lifted their anchors and headed out to sea in the last few days. They have to anchor in 90 feet of water (only sandy bottom available) running 400 feet of chain & warp. The wind shifts and tides move the boats around so much they go awol. Once off the shelf the anchor is in clear water and they head for the horizon. Cost to get the harbour master to fetch it back - $180.
He is quite a guy, can´t swim and bought the boat having never sailed before. Headed from Ontario east to the Atlantic, down the US coast, through the Panama canal and then to Easter Island. It took him 53 days from Panama as he was stuck with no wind for 18 days & was going backwards 14 miles per day. He nearly ran out of water & fags (so mother will appreciate what his suffering).

There is one more trail to do but this is a walking trail near town, I will do that tomorrow, but one last thing. Checking my photos I noticed a shot of wildlife. There are Hawks all over the place and they make quite a screech (which is more than can be said for the brakes on the Yamaha). I thought I would share it with you as I rather proud of this chance shot!
What do you mean, you can´t see it? There it is right in the middle of the picture!

12 comments:

  1. "Miserable middle-aged couples"? Is this trip making you even more cynical? Why not "merry" or (as in your case) "menopausal"? x

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    1. Not at all, if anything it is reaffirming my faith in human nature. If this is what a menopuase feels like why are women so grumpy about it?

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  2. Give up on the wildlife photo competition chap, got you beat all hands down. A lama scratching its arse with Machu Picchu as a back drop! I am sure David M will order a framed copy on my return to UK?

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    1. Signed and dated by the photographer and you have a sure fire winner (sight unseen) although the Condor shed was a real special Kev!

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  3. Consider it done David, in exchange for a pint of badger arse tickler or whatever is the beer of the here and now on my return, and taken with Lord and Lady Cheltenham ( whichever one is which), Delbert and anyother members of the real ale, sandals and odd sock wearing brigade. The pleasure will be all mine.

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  4. Of course it isnt a Hawk, its a bloody Condor - I can see the Yama clutched in its talons.

    Our local pub (which Enzo has visited) has just won the North Cotswolds Camra "Pub of the Year" award and they had a celebration lock-in last evening to which Clara and I were invited. They had several guest ales on offer including the delightfully named Shag Weaver. I didnt taste it but did spend much of the evening asking all the attractive (and even some unattractive -needs must) ladies if they were weavers.

    As it is definitelky "Here and Now" Wilks, perhaps to be added to the tasting list when Wilks (plural), David M and co get together for an Ale or three on the return of the prodigal.

    Henry.

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  5. David Attenborough or even, the old tramp, Bill Oddie hasn't got anything to worry about then!

    Very nice Pub too but I remebber only a bunch of swollen red nosed old soaks. You obviously keep the wenches of the town for locals only - lucky girls!

    If we can get DM to Le Mans we may have a full complment (post race obviously)!

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    1. Sounds like a plan - but can we please keep Tom out of the chair when it comes to ordering drinks. Mmmm... and Wilks can be a bit of a worry too - or is that just me imagining hedges again?

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  6. Please remember I wash pushed not pissed!

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  7. That's .......was pushed......but I had washed?

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    1. I had assumed you were "pished" when you typed it!! x

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