Tuesday 3 April 2012

Easter Island Day 1 (more pics)

I sat next to a nice German chap called Marko on the flight. Works for Merc Benzs in the travel logistics dept. He has just been to Iguassu falls, Santiago now Easter Is and then returns to Germany - all in 7 days which seems a bit of a rush to me.
I was welcomed by the hotel shuttle driver with a garland of, what i can only describe as Calamari tied in knots on a piece of string. Luckily it smelled better than that. Needless to say the women got nice flowers!

Marco and I arranged to meet for a beer after we had settled in to our respective hotels. It was harder than we imagined. There are no roads signs and about 3 street lights on the whole island. Luckily it is a small town and we bumped into each other whilst trying to find each other!

When it rains here, it pours but it is brief and it is warm

Access to the interweb is limited so i am typing this in the wifi cafe (who subscribe to some whizzy satellite) with the great and good of the island chatting to their mates - how am i meant to concentrate?

After breakfast I asked about tours. They have plenty but involving 15-20 people. It is just not the way I want to see the island so considered hiring a car. It is a small triangular island and so i am unlikely to miss anything although a bit of history would be nice to hear.
I went for a walk and saw a Motorbike hire place. That is much more in keeping with my "motorcycle diaries" so, against all my principles of not riding in shorts and T shirt I booked one. A Yamaha XT250. It certainly isn´t the Beamer and the brakes leave a lot to be desired!
 The wifi is so poor I couldn't even pay for it! Needles to say, i did at the end of the hire.

There are 2 major concentrations of the "sights" with many individual ones dotted along the coastline.
I headed up the red earth road towards Orongo on my new steed. Orongo is an old village of 54 drystone houses. It sits between the edge of the volcanic crater Rano Kau and the sea. both sides are very steep! it was built in the 16th century and was only used for a few weeks each spring for ceremonial purposes (they think).

They carved stones with images (that are not easy to decipher) but all have great significance I am sure. Ancient graffiti prior to the invention of the paint spray can.
The crater is out of bounds due to rare flora but it would be difficult to get down and probably impossible to get out again as the sides are so steep. There is a lake at the bottom with floating reed beds.
I bumped into an Aussie (just for a change) who was hiking up to the village with no shoes. Not sure why but he was cheerful enough.

I  headed back down and visited some caves with some paintings (obviously after the carving but before spray cans) at Ana Kai Tangata. It is a beautiful coastline with dramatic caves and volcanic rock formations.

The paintings are of "Birdman". He was more Godly than our Batman but didn´t have the cool wardrobe. I will come back to him later. The aussie guy turned up at the caves but still hadn´t found his shoes.

After this i went further along the coast. Every few hundred yards there are Moai "remains". These massive stone monuments were likenesses of the great and good of society and the religion of the time required them to worship their ancestors. This was fine until that fell out of fashion and Birdman took over as number 1 Deity. As with all loving religions they ripped down the totems of the competition. This happened in the 18th Century and is why they are all lying face down in the dirt. By the way - all the faces look towards the land not the sea (keeping an eye on everyone).

The red blocks dotted around are their "topknots" or hats that once crowned the statues but rolled away after being pulled down.

There are over 400 Moai´s on the island and you do get a bit punch drunk with yet another tumbled down wreck. There was better to come!

All the statues were carved from the same quarry on the side of another volcano Rano Raraku. The whole hillside is covered with them. looking across the landscape with unblinking eyes.

They were partially submerged under a lava flow. Further up the volcano you can see the partially carved blocks of stone about to become more effigies.
Apparently the island used to have immense woodlands but some say that there were cut down to move the stones. It would certainly fit with the Stonehenge explanation of how they moved the stones around the island.

From the slopes you can see on the coastline below a row of erect Moai´s. This is Tongariki. In the 1980´s the local council with financial help from Japanese repaired one site to its former glory. I am glad they did as it is stunning and great to see what they were like before Birdman did his worst.


More another day but Internet is too slow!

ciao

6 comments:

  1. Kevin,
    Glad to see you are taking full advantage of every opportunity and hopefully have recovered from the mugging. Glad no physical violence involved but no doubt still unpleasant.
    Look forward to pictures but a bit concerned no mention so far of a volkwagen kombi, druids and the Irish Bar - surely one or more must be present on the island?
    David M

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  2. Doing my best but the carbon footprint isn´t looking too good at present.
    One VW combi but no Druids or Oirish bars but some miserable sod has introduced an accordian to the locals! Who would do such a thing?!

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  3. This is developing into a terrific travel diary - I dont think Tahiti would be flash at all.

    Nice photo of the Yama Enzo, a pity the condor took off before you pressed the button - more help needed from wilks?

    Liked the family photo heading the last post, but I thought there were only four of you.

    Cheers and I hope you do find a pub, Irish or otherwis, Henry

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  4. Good job you are not here otherwise we would be encouraging each other to greater extremes of travel!

    Wilks would be worrying what lense to use and the bird would be dead before he was ready!

    5 not 4. The other 2 are probably the taxi driver and bar man waiting to be paid!

    PLenty of bars & restaurants so i am not missing out on either beer or wine.

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  5. Dear Henry, don't worry but the Wilkins are 5, no problem caused as I am the one we don't talk about!

    Can't wait to see Delberts photos in the Rain Forest, the butterflies are as big as hankies and land on your lens cover........he will still manage to miss them!

    Look forward to trying these beers with just a dash of lemonade top? What ? Real Ale with a dash could catch on? Plus please pass on my very best to Mrs Weaver.

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    1. It looks like you have had a very Happy Eastery Easter! Also hope that you have got back to find the bike all fixed and ready for the next excursion.

      Hello Wilks, glad to see you found some oxygen and are still breathing. I see I am demoted again - just as well I'm a multitasker!?

      Looks like we shouldn't be rushing home from Le Mans!

      Clara

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