More of the same really

The Saga of the bike repairs continues.
Having contacted BMW Santiago and been told that my bike would "probably" be ready yesterday (Weds) I contacted them again to ask if it was ready to collect?

Not only is it not ready, the Damper has not even arrived from Germany. Supposing they ordered it when I delivered the bike to them - that is 4 weeks! My impression of the postal system of South America is not improved by this news. Especially as it also appears to be impossible to have my new credit card delivered to me securely. The scene at the Post Office in Buenos Aires seems like years ago but nothing has changed.

Better still, they think it is another 2 weeks away from being delivered!!! As you can imagine, I am not best pleased! I have told them if it is not ready by 5th May I am taking it anyway. I will take my chances with it through Bolivia and Peru rather than sit in Santiago any longer.

Had a nice lunch with Max, the Chilean guy I met in Pucon some weeks ago. He is keen to do the next bit North but is hamstrung by work. He makes promotional videos for companies in Chile. He did offer to make one of my trip north but it was too expensive, it would also appear to be a terrible ego trip (not as if that would stop me).

I doubt it will happen but we will talk again when i get back from the UK.

One piece of good news. I switched to private lessons from the interminable classroom conjugation of verbs. It is just want I needed, pure conversational Spanish with Alejandra correcting my pronunciation - so that will be every sentence then! Still, I must be getting better. We got on to religion and I can now trash the Pope & the Catholic faith in two languages! Progress at last. Surprisingly she hadn't heard of Christopher Hitchens - well she has now!

I will have to think about packing for my flight back to the UK for Millie (21) & Rosie's (18) birthday parties. I hope to get the opportunity to embarrass them with some typical Dad dancing in front of their friends!

In actual fact it doesn't take any thinking about. I won't bother to take a bag as I only have 3 shirts, 2 shorts and 1 pair of socks so they may as well stay in Santiago.

Recently got an interesting bit of  news from Wilks who has been doing his Bear Grils impression up the Amazon in Peru. I don't believe anything swam up his todger but clearly his bowels are in less than perfect working order! I don't envy the person he is sat next to on the 14 hour flight back to the UK!

Shows I am short of information on my own trip to have to drag the level down to lavatorial humour (and even that is not my own story).

See you in the UK.
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Earthquake (6.2)

It is 1:00 am and I just got woken by what I thought was someone in the room, jumping on the bed!

Lights on and no one there. The whole building was shaking as if a bloody great train was going by. It lasted about 40 seconds and after the shaking the whole building wobbled for ages afterwards.

I heard the apartment next door go out in to the hall way. I assume they are local and know what to do! By the time I has worked out what was going on it was too late to make any plans. Anyway I am on the 18th floor so I wouldn't fancy my chance of making it down all those stairs, not even in my Superman PJ's.

Back to bed & sleep hopefully!

subsequently heard that it was 6.2 on the sphincter scale. Not very high by their standards but it did raise a few eyebrows when I told them I live on the 18th floor.

Just about had enough of Spanish Grammar

Friday at school didn't go too well. The Tutor lost her temper with us because we couldn't get to grips with adjetivo posesivo and any number of verbs. She then gave us a tirade in Spanish with the three of us just looking at her (no flash of underwear today to lighten the mood).

We made it to playtime and were given a "comments" page to complete - none of us were very complimentary. I feel sorry for the girls as they spend a lot of their budget on this course and I don't think they felt it was value for money.

To give you an idea of the difference between English and Spanish and show it is not just me finding it difficult. We were told to buy a dictionary that also had Spanish Verb tables.

For example a simple verb Speak/Hablar- 
"Speak" in English we have: Spoke, Spoken, Speak, Speaks and Speaking (5 variations)
"Hablar" in Spanish has 53, yes FIFTY bloody THREE variations!!!

I may try to change me course from a week of more verbs to just a few private lessons "talking to a tutor" - I think that will do more good.

On Saturday I went for a stroll and took the Funicular up the hill to see the view of the smog. It is a shame that the city gets in the way.

Watched the Grand Prix - shame Buttons nuts were difficult to tighten. I have just done my laundry (its a Rock and Roll lifestyle on the road), been to the gym, time for a spot of lunch and then will take my kindle and ipod to the pool for an hour or longer if i fall asleep!.

Hopefully I will get an email from BMW to say I can pick the bike up next week.

Coup d'etat in underwear

It appears that I was not the only one struggling with the Spanish.

I arrived to find a lady, not quite the same size as Hatti Jacques but of that ilk, planted in front of the blackboard, actually it is a white board and pens these days. At least there is no chalk for the teachers to throw at you.

The two diminutive girls Annike (Ger) & Bar (Isr) were so disillusioned with the first few days that they had a chat with the school and that was the end of Alvarro. Despite agreeing with the level of his teaching, I was rather sorry to see him go. His "day job" was as a trapeze artist for a local show. He was good fun but not much of a Spanish teacher. I hope he is better on the high wire than conjugating those verbs! There again Harry bloody Houdini himself couldn't get me out of my confusion with the damned things!

With Mabel (for that is her name) as our new teacher, we were in for a whirlwind! She galloped in to the first session like a dray horse pulling a few kegs of Young's Ordinary. We didn't have a chance!

She gave us her biography, only speaking Spanish, which included; A degree in literature, Theatre studies, learning Japanese and Salsa dancing:

"A graceful thing is the Elephant bird, 

seldom seen but often heard...."

As she turned to the board, the three of us exchanged glances  with a lot of raised eyebrows! Mabel (she must be the only Mabel in South America) was a force to be reckoned with. No speaking in English, not even questions (sorry - preguntas). We made it to play time and joined the other children in the playground and wondered how we would get though the morning.

We returned and continued at some pace, although she calmed down a little. Just as she was beginning to make an impression on us a faulty zip on her skirt decided to play up.

As she turned towards the board to write about "pronombres demonstrativos" (that was different depending on the day of the week or whether it was raining or not) there was a hint of white underwear. it was small to start with so didn't matter. Each turn to the board revealed another inch of white bombachas. Of course we all looked at each other and were giggling like school children (yes i know we are for this week).

It was beginning to get serious and were increasingly shown a substantial amount of white cotton - remember this is Hatti Jacques little sister we are talking about, so there are acres of the stuff!

I was gesticulating to the girls that they should say something before it becomes embarrassing for all concerned. Still they didn't pipe up. As the zip came lower the waistband of her skirt loosened and was going down like a Zeppelin. More and more sail cloth hove in to view and at this point i refused to look up from my text book and was biting the end of my biro.

At last Annike plucked up the courage to tell her!!!

Mabel was a little flustered but her Drama training came to the fore and, like any old stager, carried on to the end!

So when i come back an can not tell you the correct "adjectivo posesivo"- It wasn't all my fault!

Finally got some news on the Bike - hopefully the parts will arrive from Germany this week & I should be able to collect her wednesday next week! The other good news is that my new bank card has arrived but is debatable if i can get it here in time to pay their bill!

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Back to School again.

I have booked myself in for two more weeks of Spanish classes in Santiago. The school is in the middle of the University area of town and is heaving with lots of bright young things in a party mood. It must have been signing on day as there were queues along the pavements outside several of the admin buildings. Some of them were in school uniform which made them look about 12 years old.

First day back and forgot my apple for teacher, which was ok as i have a male teacher this time. Just two other students a Brazilian (who of course finds Spanish easy) and an English girl (her last day before heading to Peru).

What I found, within the first 10 minutes, was that I have forgotten about 50% of what they taught me in BsAs. Age is a terrible thing and the old grey matter (no not my hair) struggles to retain Spanish conjugations of verbs. It hurt my feelings to be the only one of 3 to be given homework & I even struggled with that!

For example which other language has the same phrase for Why and Because "por que" and "porque"! The trick is all in the pronunciation - if only Wilks was here to help!
Slightly embarrassing moment at playtime. I put my money in the "automated" coffee machine and waited. It was a little while before the guy behind me pointed out that I hadn't put the cup under the spout. My coffee was dribbling through the drip tray! I grabbed a plastic cup just in time to get the dash of luke watm milk. Delicious!

The funny thing is I really enjoy the whole atmosphere and trying to learn, even if I am a hopeless case.

Easter Island final day

The only bit of the Island left to see was walking distance from the main town, the only town, Hanga Roa.
It is a nice walk north along the coast and you quickly walk in to more Moai at Tahai. They have replaced the eyes in this one to show what they would have looked like in period. Obviously the originals were all stolen years ago.

Rather than take the red earth road i thought i would hug the cliff top pathway, which was fine for a while. Unfortunately the path soon disappeared and i was left scrambling over lava flows. Not a great idea in flip my flops. Obviously this few kilometres took longer than i thought and being really stupid I hadn't taken a hat or any water. Luckily it clouded over so wasn't in danger of sun or heat stroke, just stubbed toes.

I eventually got to the cliffs where caves were marked on the map. I assumed they would be like the ones I saw on the first day - large open & light. Nope, the entrance was a tiny hole in the top of the cliff which you had to bend double to enter. Apart from hat and water, I hadn't brought a torch! So rather than risk falling to my death i just enjoyed the views of the sea. I content myself with the fact that I have not seen any stunning pictures of their caves so I assume I did not miss much, other than a sore head to match my sore toes.

I came back via the Moai and, as if too prove the point that "Birdman" had supremacy over the ancestors, this Hawk sat (or is that shat) on the Moai as I walked past. (another great wildlife shot that will trump Wilks Lama scratching it's arse).
 

Wandering back in to town I saw "Rough Bounds" heading out to sea, down wind with just his Genoa up. He was heading to Pitcairn another 1,250 miles away (population 100 and a incestuous paedophiles to boot).
I think I forgot to say that he originally started from Canada with his 23 year old nephew who had just recovered from a lung transplant. By the time they got to Florida he was rejecting the new lung.........he died shortly afterwards but sent a message that he should continue the voyage for his sake.

I was glad to buy him a beer and wish him Good Luck on his 2 year, round the world trip in a 30' boat built in the 1960's!!!

A beer seemed a good idea after my long walk in the sun. It took me this long to discover they had a local brew. A bit too sweet for my taste and a fair amount of sludge at the bottom of the bottle. I don't think the Fursty Ferret is under any serious competition from the Easter Island Brewing Company.

The kids had finished school (for Easter break I assume) and they all seemed to have Body boards and were larking about in the surf until sunset. Not a bad way to finish off the week.

I did my best to find some presents amongst the various stalls but i am afraid there was not much that drew the eye or the wallet. i didn't actually see a Thermometer stuck to the side of a statute (shame as managed to get an Eiffel tower with one for Phil once) but it seems such destinations are doomed to produce tacky tourist gifts.

It is a great island with wonderful sights and I am glad i made the trip, if you are ever heading this way 4 days is perfect as it really is a small island and the sights can be done easily in this time.So much so that Marko had managed to get on the same flight a day earlier than he planned (and he cycled the whole Island). Whilst waiting for the flight, they played a video and it looks like they have some amazing diving here. I wish I had looked in to snorkeling (not being a diver).

I forgot to show just how accurately they cut the rock with only stone tools: This is a base of one of the Ahu's (altars that the Moai stand on)

Finally here is a modern day painting of Birdman (as if you are remotely interested!)

Easter Island the northern Loop

Jumped on the bike and headed off in roughly the right direction, after several red earth roads and even more dead ends i managed to get on the right track. I did stop off at the Museum (which was a disappointment compared to what is outside). A few interesting facts about the Island; one being that it started as 3 volcanoes 3,000,000 years ago but only became 1 island 300,000 years ago. It also predicts it´s demise in the none to distant future as it is on the subduction plate that will disappear under Chile. They haven´t started cancelling flights yet so you still have time to get here.

The first port of call was to Ahu Ahivi where these 7 Moai are reputed to be the original explorers who found the place some time ago, obviously not Germans as there were no towels on the altar. These chaps face towards the setting sun at Equinox apparently which is slightly different to the others (don´t hold me to these facts). Oh the other thing is, when you die they lay you out like a spit-roast and let the sun burn the flesh from your body.

Yet again, as "Norman no mates" on tour I get asked to take photos of happy honeymooners and miserable middle aged couples.  Today was different - 4 Japanese tourists. If only they knew my reputation with a camera!

After thisI headed up the worst dirt road yet. Big ruts and mounds. I was glad to be on the little Yamaha as I think I would have struggled with the heavy Beamer.

This is Panau Pau the quarry on the island where all the Topnots are made. It is very red volcanic rock (high iron content I assume). They weigh several tons each and were transported to the Moai so that they could look their best on Sundays at church.
This and the main quarry were obviously left in a hurry. I can imagine the Birdman Union called the brothers out one evening, downed tools and never returned. A bit like British Leyland in the 70´s.

Back down the Wibbly Wobbly way and on to  a beautiful spot Ana Karenina (no it wasn´that but i can´t remember it exactly). You walk through a coconut palm grove to reach a white coral beach which is at odds with the rest of the black rocky coast. Overlooking the bathers are another group of Moai - 4 sporting sun hats which is a good idea in this climate.

The water is warm and clear but there is little shade, so lunch is taken under the palm trees. A few families serve basic picnic lunches - I am not too sure about Cheese & Tuna empanadas though. It also gave me a chance to read more of my book, which happens to be Robinson Crusoe - the surroundings couldn´t have been more perfect for such a story.

That completed the loop and so I headed back to town and delivered the bike back to the shop.

I then headed down to the small harbour and had a local beer. A Canadian introduced himself as the Skipper of a 30 foot yacht "Rough Bounds" anchored out to sea with 2 other yachts (1 British, I French)  and 2 catamarans (Aussie & S African).
They all watch the boats like hawks as 3 have lifted their anchors and headed out to sea in the last few days. They have to anchor in 90 feet of water (only sandy bottom available) running 400 feet of chain & warp. The wind shifts and tides move the boats around so much they go awol. Once off the shelf the anchor is in clear water and they head for the horizon. Cost to get the harbour master to fetch it back - $180.
He is quite a guy, can´t swim and bought the boat having never sailed before. Headed from Ontario east to the Atlantic, down the US coast, through the Panama canal and then to Easter Island. It took him 53 days from Panama as he was stuck with no wind for 18 days & was going backwards 14 miles per day. He nearly ran out of water & fags (so mother will appreciate what his suffering).

There is one more trail to do but this is a walking trail near town, I will do that tomorrow, but one last thing. Checking my photos I noticed a shot of wildlife. There are Hawks all over the place and they make quite a screech (which is more than can be said for the brakes on the Yamaha). I thought I would share it with you as I rather proud of this chance shot!

What do you mean, you can´t see it? There it is right in the middle of the picture!

Easter Island Day 1 (more pics)

I sat next to a nice German chap called Marko on the flight. Works for Merc Benzs in the travel logistics dept. He has just been to Iguassu falls, Santiago now Easter Is and then returns to Germany - all in 7 days which seems a bit of a rush to me.
I was welcomed by the hotel shuttle driver with a garland of, what i can only describe as Calamari tied in knots on a piece of string. Luckily it smelled better than that. Needless to say the women got nice flowers!

Marco and I arranged to meet for a beer after we had settled in to our respective hotels. It was harder than we imagined. There are no roads signs and about 3 street lights on the whole island. Luckily it is a small town and we bumped into each other whilst trying to find each other!

When it rains here, it pours but it is brief and it is warm

Access to the interweb is limited so i am typing this in the wifi cafe (who subscribe to some whizzy satellite) with the great and good of the island chatting to their mates - how am i meant to concentrate?

After breakfast I asked about tours. They have plenty but involving 15-20 people. It is just not the way I want to see the island so considered hiring a car. It is a small triangular island and so i am unlikely to miss anything although a bit of history would be nice to hear.
I went for a walk and saw a Motorbike hire place. That is much more in keeping with my "motorcycle diaries" so, against all my principles of not riding in shorts and T shirt I booked one. A Yamaha XT250. It certainly isn´t the Beamer and the brakes leave a lot to be desired!

 The wifi is so poor I couldn't even pay for it! Needles to say, i did at the end of the hire.

There are 2 major concentrations of the "sights" with many individual ones dotted along the coastline.

I headed up the red earth road towards Orongo on my new steed. Orongo is an old village of 54 drystone houses. It sits between the edge of the volcanic crater Rano Kau and the sea. both sides are very steep! it was built in the 16th century and was only used for a few weeks each spring for ceremonial purposes (they think).

They carved stones with images (that are not easy to decipher) but all have great significance I am sure. Ancient graffiti prior to the invention of the paint spray can.

The crater is out of bounds due to rare flora but it would be difficult to get down and probably impossible to get out again as the sides are so steep. There is a lake at the bottom with floating reed beds.

I bumped into an Aussie (just for a change) who was hiking up to the village with no shoes. Not sure why but he was cheerful enough.

I  headed back down and visited some caves with some paintings (obviously after the carving but before spray cans) at Ana Kai Tangata. It is a beautiful coastline with dramatic caves and volcanic rock formations.

The paintings are of "Birdman". He was more Godly than our Batman but didn´t have the cool wardrobe. I will come back to him later. The aussie guy turned up at the caves but still hadn´t found his shoes.

After this i went further along the coast. Every few hundred yards there are Moai "remains". These massive stone monuments were likenesses of the great and good of society and the religion of the time required them to worship their ancestors. This was fine until that fell out of fashion and Birdman took over as number 1 Deity. As with all loving religions they ripped down the totems of the competition. This happened in the 18th Century and is why they are all lying face down in the dirt. By the way - all the faces look towards the land not the sea (keeping an eye on everyone).

The red blocks dotted around are their "topknots" or hats that once crowned the statues but rolled away after being pulled down.

There are over 400 Moai´s on the island and you do get a bit punch drunk with yet another tumbled down wreck. There was better to come!

All the statues were carved from the same quarry on the side of another volcano Rano Raraku. The whole hillside is covered with them. looking across the landscape with unblinking eyes.

They were partially submerged under a lava flow. Further up the volcano you can see the partially carved blocks of stone about to become more effigies.

Apparently the island used to have immense woodlands but some say that there were cut down to move the stones. It would certainly fit with the Stonehenge explanation of how they moved the stones around the island.

From the slopes you can see on the coastline below a row of erect Moai´s. This is Tongariki. In the 1980´s the local council with financial help from Japanese repaired one site to its former glory. I am glad they did as it is stunning and great to see what they were like before Birdman did his worst.

More another day but Internet is too slow!

ciao

Happy Easter from Easter Island

Santiago is a nice town but too many weeks in the same place can make travelling a little dull.
The Easter Islands (or Isla Pascua in Spanish) is a 5 hour flight due west from Santiago and is a dot in the middle of the Pacific. How they ever found it in the first place is beyond me.

The flight actually continues on to Tahiti, I did think about it, but that would just be down right flash! And no one could ever accuse me of that eh?

This is a picture from the web but i will be off exploring over the next few days and will post my own pictures when i can (writing this from a wifi Cafe the only way to communicate with the outside world).

The pictures should be ok as i dont think the statues move too sharpish, it will also be a pleasure to photograph something with a bigger nose than mine.

Not seen 1 easter egg in the shops! They are missing a tremendous commercial opportunity....or maybe not.