The agricultural zone continues but is on a far more commercial scale than in the south. Large tracts of Logging gives way to Maize which in turn changes to soft fruits & eventually grapes.
As I came to each town I headed to the centre to see what it had to offer, each time i kept going. There was nothing wrong with them, there just wasn't a reason to spend time there.
The harvest is in full flow with lorries laden with Sweet Corn, Plums and Grapes. The slow lane of Ruta 5 has turned the colour of red wine as the trucks drip their way from the fields to the wineries. The smell was intense and any more of it & I could have been over the limit.
I passed one field on the side of a hill being "irrigated", low growing, multi coloured crops interspersed with mown grass. I couldn't work it out until i got closer. It was a cemetery - they can water it as much as they like, I don't think they will bring that crop back to life!
I saw a sign post for Pichilemu which reminded me of a comment from someone a few days ago. It was about another 120kms west but I didn't have anything else on the horizon and Santiago was getting too close. Promisingly the road is called Carretera Vinos. Indeed it is.
Mile after mile of vineyards, heaving with trucks moving the crop. It was a good road but a little dangerous. The trucks moved slowly and it was a challenge to overtake with limited visibility. The plains give way to hills and eventually you come over the top to see the pacific ocean ahead of you.
Pichilemu is a well regarded surfing spot with some big waves. Trouble is the water is bloody freezing. I didn't have an hotel booked and it is a small town strung out along the coast. The weather is good & there are camping sites. I thought I may be pitching the tent for the first time.
As luck would have it, I trundled down a lane towards the sea and found the Surfers Hostel. They didn't ask to see my surfing licence so I got a room. Just what i wanted. Very relaxed people and lovely view of the sea. Praa Sands Chilean style. I know Millie & her friends would love the people & scene here.
I got checked in (£25 per night kids so no worries there) showered and flip flopped to the bar.
A couple of American from Las Vegas were sipping drinks and we got talking. Never jump to conclusions, as although they worked in casinos - he is an anthropologist specialising in Third World conflict. Despite writing for National Geographic and Al Jazeera it just doesn't pay the bills! They are down here to see whether they can buy a farm and start the "Good Life". He had some interesting views on all territories but North Africa is his favourite topic. He doesn't hold out much hope for the African continent as a whole.
They have baths on the beach with heated sea water and a wood fire too. All very bohemian but i haven't seen any guitars yet..
The next day dawned overcast and chilly so I went for a walk into town along the beach. High season finished a few weeks ago so it was pretty quiet but there were a few fun sights.
It wasn't a lovely bright sunny day but I did notice the contrast between the black sand and the white surf. Wilks will be proud of me. The sand is as soft and fine as any white sand you will find, just a funny colour.
I was reading my book in the bar and heard several bikes arrive. 3 BMW's and a Honda had arrived. Four guys from Santiago had driven down for the day. They worked for the likes of Bechtel, BHP Billiton and a Bank and were of a similar age to myself. They came in and had a coffee were great fun & extremely helpful in terms of advice for my ride north later in the trip.
They headed back to Santiago but not before arming me with their business cards & suggestions of beer in town when I get there! It just adds to the experience of being on a bike & confirms how friendly the South American are.
Kevin,
ReplyDeleteYour concerns about Bolivia could potentially extend to Peru. The BBC News site carries details of a nude cycle protest in Lima where "Hundreds of scantily clad and nude cyclists took to the streets of Peru's capital, Lima, to call attention to safety conditions on the city's roads." Suggest you get on over there and lend weight (?) to their campaign
Not much weight to offer, i am losing weight by the day, must be all the exercise i am taking! I hope they were successful and it is safe for when i arrive.
DeleteGreat rugby results by the way!
Two other programmes on BBC tv last evening (Sunday), Ben Fogle driving on one of "the worlds most dangerous roads" in a 4x4 going over the Andes to Comas and then Kate Humble sailing on the Beagle Channel up to a glazier face - fantastic scenery
ReplyDeleteI thought you were watching the same program as David when you said fantastic scenery?
DeleteDid Ben go up the road or down? I have been recommended go down it as that way you are with, rather than against, the flow of the lorries that are trying to kill you!
Phil, Humble and Fogle that's so last year?
ReplyDeleteI have just come over the Andes from Osorno to Bariloche, what fantastic scenery, only one slight problem the brakes failed on the coach and believe me you do not want to becoming down from the Andes on bus with no brakes! Thankfully it automatically shuts down the engine and a mechanic came and fixed it.
Sorry to intrude on a real ale blog with a travel story? Fullers summer beer Honey Dew is very nice probably not rare enough for some of the more refined readers of blog and hops not picked by virgins only using their teeth on Friday before sunrise?
So good to hear those nice people from Cheltenham are going to Le Mans, would they and Thomas please note if we do at some stage end up in a bar I am only drinking Lemon Violins as they are much smaller.
Dear Henry, so glad your son will partner you in the race.....I have no idea who else might have put themselves forward!!!!!!!
Begging your pardon but i had absolutely nothing to do with that lemon cello!
Delete...i was responsible for the jagermeister.
Please get your facts straight before you start throwing around accusations like that.
I can't believe they didn't offer you the drive Fangio! have they not heard of your exploits in the Triumph Dolomite?
DeleteI dont think it was the LC that was the problem, we still wanted an ice cream after those!
ReplyDeleteEnzo, Tom and Wilks,
DeleteI agree it was not the LC (though that may have helped develop the mood that Wilks started with the champers), nor was it the wine - good though it was. I now know what it was Tom - I had never heard of it (being of a certain age), I could not pronounce it (even before imbibing), but now I can spell it - jagermeister. So - it seems it really was all your fault Tom, hedges, police, lost glasses, glass tables, bruises everywhere - and not a single bloody ice cream in sight.
We also enjoyed Kate Humble (difficult not to) and followed hear eagerly along the trail you had blazed for us all only a week or two earlier. Knowing her prediliction for animals - from her even prettier Longleat days - our only surprise was that she did not track down two of the more infamous local ones - as in Wilks and Wilks on tour. Actually, probably a good decision on her part.
Safe riding, Henry
Again, such baseless accusations, i may have shown the bar girl how to make jagerbombs, but she used tumblers instead of shot glasses against my instruction! The fact that i then advocated drinking many more rounds of them is utterly beside the point we would have been absolutely fine, if they were normal shots.
DeleteI must say i think it is rather poor form for a group of people who really should know better to be grouping up to besmirch the name of a young gentleman entirely innocent of all wrongdoing with such slanderous accusations that might affect my psychological well being.
bollocks - it is a fair cop! That was why the police were called.................
DeleteKate Humble fauna competiton. I think Wilks may have seen a Beaver.
DeleteDad it's a llama, not a donkey!!
ReplyDeleteahhhhhh that's why his name wasn't Dobbin!
DeleteI may have been lucky enough to go sailing on the canal de Beagle but only saw two beaver dam's and neither of them were called Kate ?
ReplyDeleteThomas you are a true Wilkins......just say it's not me guv! ....it is a family tradition started by your father.
Dear Clara as you muse over this whilst at your corn flakes and G&T, I would like to point out in the strongest terms possible I had never touched the demon drink until dinner in Monza with yourself and Henry. Many thank for compliments re stiff upper lip on bus with no brakes but the computer that shuts down the engine should take the glory I just gave kiss of life to any young attractive Argentine women that required it and far more that didn't!!! My case comes up next week.