In the Land of the White Marching Powder

I was pleased to have a proper shower and get in to a bed that didn't rock or get wet. I was also relieved to  find my bike in good order having been left outside on the street for the past 5 days. The security guys got another tip for that.

 

 I got up early and headed north to Quito. It was a lovely ride and Northern Ecuador countryside is delightful. I don't think anyone could ever starve here as every tree and plant seems to produce something edible. The green hills/mountains are often punctuated with tall water falls.

It has twisty roads which are great fun but it does take time as even on the bike you get stuck behind lumbering lorries. Nearing Quito you come across the most amazing 4 lane road. It is still twisting and turning but I have never driven round hairpin bends with two lanes each way, they have even cambered the road to really let rip in to the bends - such fun!

I lost my bearing in Quito so I tapped up a Taxi to get me to my hotel - another $3 wasted I hear you cry.

I have recently read on the HUBB that Venezuela puts a ruddy great stamp in your passport (to do with the temporary import of the bike) which requires a whole page. I only have one clean page in mine and not many spaces for any sort of stamp. I contacted the British Consul to see what the option were. They were very helpful but the only real option (should it come to pass) was to apply for an "overseas issue" passport - which has to go to Washington DC and will take 5 weeks. That didn't sound too promising!

Duncan (you may remember him from Santiago & Huacachina) was in town - his bike having broken down again! He has christened his bike Thesseus as it has so many new parts. We met up for a few beers and a curry (we agreed that the curry was not up to "British" standards)- which is often the way when in town with Duncan. The poor soul has wasted so much time and money waiting for parts to fix his bike that he is probably going to have to quit the journey at Columbia (he was planning to go up to the USA).

I saw this in Quito - I knew God is meant to move in mysterious ways but I didn't realise he did it in a pickup truck.

 

By the way - I noticed that team GB have won lots of medals! Well done them. The coverage over here shows London and the UK in glowing terms so I think it has been very good for the country. Naturally they focus on South American athletes so not seen much with the Brits in .

I can't say that Quito is the prettiest town which is a shame as it is in wonderful countryside.It seems to have been built in the 60's and 70's and we know that was not a great period of architectural design. There are a few colonial buildings left, which sit cheek by jowl with the concrete but too many have succumbed to the Earthquakes over the years. On the way in I missed the Cotapaxi volcano but on the way out I did see Cayabame (at least I think that's what it is called). I am not too hot on the geography from here but I suspect it may be the last volcanoes of the trip.

It was another lovely ride through the hills with lots of twists and turns. It is nice to use the outer edges of the tyres for a change but it took longer than Goggle had suggested. Nothing passed me on the whole journey so I am not sure how you could do it much quicker.

I was right to leave early in case of delays at the border. The traffic jam started over 1 km from the border post. The bike made good progress through the gaps but it doesn't have the slimest waistline of bikes so I did get stuck trying to weave through the queue. As we sat waiting the lorry drivers were keen to chat (about the bike obviously) and were also kind in letting me in to gaps.

Once at the border it was pretty confusing and i was nearly in Columbia before I had done any paperwork. It is not the easiest place in the world to do a U turn.
Back to the Ecuador immigration office and a decent queue. I was relieved when I managed to stop him putting the exit stamp on the only clean page of my passport, he looked a little puzzled and put out.

The Customs man was a delight and I was out of there is seconds. next up the Colombian immigration, which required a short ride of 50 meters. The Guys trying to exchange money kindly said they would keep an eye on my bike for me whilst  queued ( I locked it anyway!). Another decent queue at which point I discovered (if I understood them correctly) that this is the only border crossing between Ecuador & Columbia - no wonder it is busy! Again I managed to get him to put a stamp in a little hole. This was great news, now as long as the Colombian exit stamp doesn't go in the wrong place I will have a whole page for the Venezuelan stamp! God knows where the others are going to put theirs further along the tour!

As a favour I thought I would change a few Dollars with the guy who kept an eye on the bike. At 1800 pesos per $1 it wasn't difficult to see he tried to stiff me - he gave me 60,000 rather than the 72,000 he owed me. Lots of apologies as he gave me another 1,000. I wasn't letting this go and after about three more spoofs he eventually gave me my cash - skin as think as a Rhino! 
I had a bit of a wait at the Colombian Customs as it was lunchtime. Once again all four individuals were kind and courteous which is a bit of a surprise as I have read so many tales (on line) of bad experiences, I do wonder what they do or maybe I have just been lucky. Although I have to say, I am not looking forwards to the Venezuelan border as I think that could be interesting, irrespective of the stamp.

The border cleared I was required to go and buy local insurance (as per Ecuador) and the customs guys told me there was a supermarket in Ipiales (the town right on the border) that did it.

I rode in to Columbia, found the Supermarket, paid my 31,000 pesos (don't panic that is less than £10) for my months insurance. Clearly much more expensive than the $3 I paid in Ecuador.

I had heard that Ipiales and Pasto (my hotel for the night) were visited by those who made money from the drugs trade. I couldn't help but notice that the Supermarket had a huge stack of 50" and 55" flat screen TV's. Perhaps the rumours are true as I doubt the potato farmers are buying them.

It was another pleasant ride to Pasto on great twisty roads. It did get a bit chilly and rained a little which I wasn't expecting but we are still at about 2,800 meters.
I checked in and went for a walk. It is a nice town along similar lines to all the others but there is a distinct difference in the shops and the way people dress. There are little boutiques with some very flash clobber, watches and jewelry. I haven't seen fashionable clothes on the street since Buenos Aires. I am now prepared to believe that the trickle down affect from the white powder industry is a reality in these parts.

I have nearly finished "The Idiot" by Dostoevsky. A character in the book called Wilkins seems to be a drunken bum - he must be from a different side of the family.


I have also received a note from Henry about a great pub in Cambridge that is about to be pulled down. I know Smelly will be interested and you can pledge your support for their cause here (Alan will appreciate the music no doubt). Please see the link below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhQxCwrmbU8