Amazon or Solimoes?

It was already 28 degrees at 6:30am when I left Boa Vista for the 10 hour ride due south to Manaus.

For the last few days I have been nursing my front tyre as I have managed to flat spot it along the way. I think it was too much heavy braking in to Hairpins and coming up to Speed Humps (of which there are plenty in Venezuela). If you have ever had a flat spotted tyre you will know they only get worse rather than better. It wasn't too bad at speed but going through villages I felt like I was riding a Clowns circus bike with square wheels. My spare is pretty well worn too so I need to find a tyre in Manaus as there are no big towns until Rio 4 or 5,000 kms away). I don't know why I didn't order a new one in Medellin when I got my new rear - just stupid I suppose.

I had three bottles of very cold water in my tank bag when I left. Unfortunately i packed the camera next to them. I took some pictures but the cold camera lens in the warm air just steamed up. I only noticed this when I looked at them later. My photographic inability knows no bounds!

It was an easy drive with long straight roads, mostly through rolling grass land and across some rivers (see "soft focus" picture above), although you do get a few few miles of pot holed gravel along the way to break the monotony.

It is easy to see how the grazing for cattle has been chopped out of the forest. Some of the grazing looks well tended other areas look like they have been neglected and are returning to scrub. I passed a few Sawmills but all the big trees are long gone from anywhere near the road.

After several hours I reached a police control point at the Waimiri Atroari Reserve (they are an indigenous tribe from these parts). The Police where friendly and I was delighted to show them all my paperwork without feeling the need to clench my cheeks!  This is a protected area of virgin Rain Forest. I took a video for a few minutes whilst riding along but if you just look at this picture for a few minutes you will have the same effect!

 
I would love to tell you that I bumped into these chaps along the way but I didn't see a soul in several hours. This picture is from the Internet. I did see some blue and yellow Macaws flying in formation which was a nice. The bike seemed to attract butterflies, I don't know if it was the  headlight but I would be lynched by Lepidopterists for splattering quite a few on the screen and visor. There is virtually no traffic so I did get to wondering about breaking down here. I didn't fancy putting up a tent in the jungle and could imagine all sorts of creatures taking an interest after dark.

The roads are very long and very straight with just occasional undulations. There is not much variation in the scenery but there is a flooded area (created for Hydroelectricity according to my map). 

There are fuel stops but they can be over 300 kms apart. When I stopped for some fuel I managed to drop the bike again! That makes it about 5 or 6 times with an aggregate MPH of 0. That is not counting the Sandy fall where I was actually moving. I am sure the people must wonder how the hell I got round the continent or that I must have just bought the badges without actually doing any of it.

I eventually homed in on Manaus after nearly 10 hours. I was surprised to drive into a large industrial sprawl with Volvo trucks and Coco Cola plants here. Once you get near to the river you enter the old colonial part of town.

This is their signature building - Theatro Amazonas, looks a bit like a Mosque to me! The city was founded in 1669 as just a fort, later becoming a town in 1832 with the name of Manaus (which means "mother of the gods") after the indigenous nation of  Manaos.

Apart from the main colonial square (which is very nicely kept) this is more typical of the towns streets.It took me a while to find my hotel as Google had the one way direction of some streets back to front. The bike was overheating whilst I was in danger of drowning in my own sweat. The people were very kind and helped with directions. It was at this point I realised just how different Portuguese is to Spanish. Some of the key words are similar but the pronunciation is more like Russian!

Looking at my map, Manaus is situated at the confluence of the Negro and Solimoes rivers. I was confused, as I thought I was on the Amazon, until I read that the Brazilians (and only the Brazilians) call the Amazon - Solimoes! I am sure you all know it is the 2nd longest river in the world and by far the largest by water flow BUT did you know it discharges more water than the next 7 largest rivers combined. (20% of the world's total river flow) Another Pub Quiz winner for you!

I don't think I have ever enjoyed a cold shower more!

Tomorrow  I have to find a new tyre and a boat to take me down the river.






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