I took the front wheel off in the hotel garage and then needed another shower. I figured it would be more pleasant to take the wheel in a taxi rather than ride around getting hot, bothered and hopelessly lost. I grabbed a taxi and went to the first on the list which was close to the old town. To my relief one guy spoke a bit of English. No they didn't have it but they kindly phoned a few places to see if there were any in town. One had the right size so we headed back out to the industrial part of town. When we got there, no they didn't have the right size but they pointed towards another place. No they didn't have one either. This chaps son spoke some english and they phoned a few people. Nope there was not one of the correct size in Manaus, it would take 30 days to get one here and no there will not be an opportunity to buy one before Rio (4,500 kms away).
I decided to buy one which was the right circumference and width but the profile was larger than ideal. It is also a road tyre rather than an Enduro tyre (which is what I have on the back). That should be interesting to ride on but I really have no other option.
I got back to the hotel (the taxi driver was kind enough to wait) and fitted the wheel back on. It is a pretty simple task but I needed yet another shower to feel human again. Happyish with this result I headed off to the Port to see about a boat to Belem - my next destination towards the coast.
There are no roads to the coast. The boat trip will take 5 days.
The port is full of people and has a real buzz and bustle to it but not remotely threatening. There are a lot of bars and as it was Saturday they were doing a roaring trade (Sunday afternoon and the place is like a morgue). There are many street hawkers trying to sell you tickets on a boat but I wanted to see what was about. I walked in to the main building where I saw people buying tickets.from a window so I started there. A very kind girl Rebecca with good English explained that I had just missed one. The next one would be leaving Wednesday. That is ok as I like Manaus but will it take my bike? She tried to phone the Skipper but didn't get through. She thought it would be ok but to return on Tuesday to confirm the booking.
The options are a hammock on deck for about R$300 (you have to provide your own hammock - circa R$60) or a cabin for R$800 (R$3 = £1). Sorry kids but I am going for a cabin! Partly because I need to store all my clobber and partly because I hear the public toilets on these things are a health hazard! It will then be another R$250 for the bike.
It is funny talking to all the traders - they are all selling space on the Same boat the Amazon Star! To be fair the prices are all about the same but more than Rebecca and I am not convinced that I was not going to get stung with some extras. Rebecca said that I have to buy my passenger ticket from them in the office and pay the Captain direct for the bike (all cash). The boat arrived on Tuesday and that I should return then..
At the appointed hour I got the bike to the port and waited in a queue of traffic trying to access the dock. A police bike came down the line and told me to follow him. He took my right to the front of the queue, which was a blessing in that heat, in my riding clobber. I then handed over my R$45 tax but was asked for my bike papers ( idiot that I am I left them in the hotel). Not a problem, they laughed and waved me through.
As soon you are on the jetty you are adopted by one of the Stevedores. Again he waved me past this queue and proceeded to clear a path for me to the Amazon Star.
I had read a lot about trecherous boarding across a narrow plank. Well there was no plank just a few palletsand a 2 foot drop on to the deck. The guys got me off the bike and, by the time I had my helmet off, the bike was on the boat and being strapped down amongst the fruit and veg. A few Reals in each palm and it was sorted. Oh, they wanted the bike papers too. I asked would tomorrow be ok ? No, the Federal officers would want to see them today. Ok I will go back and get them (bugger, I was drowning in my own sweat again).
I asked for my cabin key as I planned to take off my riding clobber and lock it in there. Victoria, a 4 foot tall octogenarian in a shower cap (I have no idea why either) did not look too pleased at having her afternoon nap interrupted bur she is a naturally jovial type and got my key whilst obviously taking the piss ouf the Gringo (much to the amusement of the assembled crowd).
On the way back to the hotel I stopped off at the office to say a big thank you to Rebecca. she was pleased that it all went well and asked what I was doing later (did my ego good I can tell you). She finished work in an hour so wanted to speak english. We agreed to have a drink after I got my paperwork sorted.
Back to the hotel, a quick dash to a supermarket to get some supplies for the journey, grab the papers and back to the port. I arrived bathed in yet more of my own leakage only to hear that "tomorrow will do" or Portugese words to that affect. It didn't dampen my spirits as there is such a buzz on the wharf, it feels really good fun and exciting.
I met Rebecca and we went for a beer near the Theatro, in a bar owned by a Portuges guy - he looked a bit like David Niven.
I have to be on board at 7.00 am tomorrow and I doubt there is any wifi so the next report, hopefully, will be from Belem in about 5 days time. There are a few things to look out for on the trip so i hope I can capture them on film (unlikely I know but I will do my best).
West Wickham to Cannon Street via Catford, Bridge, Lewisham and New Cross was a not to dissimilar experience today, as it always is! No tapioca on a stick sadly so had to make do with toasted bloomer with lashings of marmalade washed down with a tea in the market cafe. No buxom wench but one can't have it all.
ReplyDeleteSomewhat surprised that your biking gear is not standing to attention in the corner by itself acting as a night light with all this talk of sweaty moments!
Papers are obviously king the world round so always carry them about your person.
Keep up the good work and travel well.
Ahhh the joys of commuting!
ReplyDeleteThe modern materials help keep the whiff to a bearable level, but I do sleep with the windows open if the Mozzie threat is not too bad!
Soup on a stick might catch on Enzo. Apply a bit of engineering and we could have a winner. We must get a Black and Decker and a long drill bit and then drill down the middle of the stick to make it tube like - rather like a piece of straw - and then you could suck the soup up with it if the wallpaper paste is not too thick.
ReplyDeleteand David........I know what you mean about the daily grind. I have just survived a trip to get the morning newspaper. Rise at 8.00 amd don tracksuit bottoms. Pull on a pair of loafers, wander across the lawn and down the drive to the lane to where the paper lady puts the paper in a tube in the hedge.......(and no lashings of MML either), just jump back into bed and whistle Clara up for a tray of tea ...then on to the real business of the day and catch up on 3 weeks of the blog. As they say, Someone has to do it.