Having taken some clothes back to England (mole skins, jumper and surplus other clobber) it was easier to pack than before, obviously a bit lighter too. One new addition to my wardrobe is a Mosquito net but it is light and doesn't take up much room. I suspect I will need that once I get to Ecuador and beyond.
The hotel staff convinced me it was easy to find my way across Lima and to the Pan American Highway (north)............2 hours later I proved them wrong! I would still be there now if, it wasn't for a nice guy Jorge on a BMW, who led me from God knows where to the right part of town. It was strange having a 1 minute conversation at every red traffic light, there are lots of them so I found out a bit about him. More evidence of how nice these people are to go out of their way for nothing but a "Gracias".
The biggest issue was that the Freeway running through the city centre (which would have got me there in no time at all) does not allow Trucks or Bikes. I can understand no Trucks but what detrimental affect does a bike have on the free flow of traffic?
The northern suburbs of Lima are "workmanlike" and it takes quite a few miles before you leave the city behind. Once out of town you are immediately reminded that you are still in the Desert. As stunning as it can be I feel I have seen quite enough and am looking forwards to a change of scenery. At certain points along the way I thought I was breaking in to lush greenery only to be disappointed as beyond each valley was more desert.
I know I have bored you with this before but it is astounding the affect a bit of fresh water can have on the surroundings- barren dust to crop rearing in a few paces. The agriculture up here seems more commercial and profitable. Despite the mechanisation here, you still pass men ploughing with horses.
For the first time I was stopped at a police check point (of which there are many). He waved me to the side of the road. And I thought "here we go" as the reputation of the Peruvian Police in the north is not all positive.
He looked pretty sour faced as he asked for my passport, then the insurance and then my drivers licence. He liked to give the impression he was studying each very carefully but given that he spent most time looking at the Japanese page of my International driving licence, I wasn't convinced.
He then tried to explain a violation I had caused by overtaking a bus on the left. He even got his book out and showed me the crime. I couldn't work out how you are meant to pass a bus if that was the case and what's more lane discipline is not great here! I really thought that "cash" is going to be required at this point.
My Spanish is not great and a bit rusty having been home for a few weeks. We then had a conversation a bit like the Two Ronnies wherein, I was answering his questions out of sequence. He looked more puzzled than annoyed. It seemed to work as he then started asking what I thought of Peru and the quality of the roads - to which I could honestly answer in glowing terms.
Then all my papers were handed back to me a handshake and I was waved on my way. I suspect I had done something wrong and he just gave me a warning - I am shame faced that I suspected him of looking for a sweetner.
I kept forgetting to photograph these funny little mototaxis. They are everywhere with weird and wonderful colour schemes and names but they are not quick!
The PanAmerican reduces to a 2 lane road for most of the journey but, to one side, they are expending time effort and what must be an enormous amount of money to make it 4 lanes in the near future. Given the number of Trucks labouring up the hills I am sure the locals will appreciate it.
About another hour or two down the road another police checkpoint and another wave to the side of the road. Here we go again I thought. Not a bit of it, the officer gave me a salute and asked me if everything was ok! Yes thank you, a hand shake, another salute and a wave goodbye............what can you say to that?
Along the way I caught up an English plated bike, which is a pretty rare sight over here. We shook hands at yet another set of lights but the "nice young couple" were clearly happy on their own and did not show any sign of wanting to get a coffee or have a chat. I absolutely understand that so wished them well and sped off.
For most of the day the weather was typical Lima - grey and overcast making any attempts at photos futile. Only when I was quite close to Chimbote did the sun come out to play.
Chimbote is not an attractive town and it is fair to say that you smell it before you see it. It is a major commercial fishing port and there is no getting away from it.
I checked in at my shabby chicish hotel with the, now usual, performance of parking the bike in reception. A mother ("Mummy") and son (50 +) run the place and it has a slightly disquieting feel to it ....Bates Motel, I hope not!
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