I got up early for what could be quite a long ride. It was nice, as the daily traffic hadn't started so the run down from the mountains was wonderful. The only slight problem being that the sun was so low in the sky it made seeing the next hairpin a bit of a challenge. I enjoyed passing the rice fields again, and the cattle wading through the sludge with the old boys hanging on to the plough in their wake.
After such a nice ride, it was a shame to find myself back on the Pan American highway. It is flat, unattractive scrub desert. Not the prettiest part of Peru and not the image to take away with you after so many wonderful sights. Because it is a flat plain nothing stops the wind howling in off the Pacific. It was rather uncomfortable but not as bad as Patagonia some months ago. The sand is constantly blown across the road looking like a rippling sheet of silk. A few towns came and went but eventually I came to Piura. It was my chosen lodging for the night simply because it is in the right place (close to the border with Ecuador).
A new dilemma in this region is when to start taking the malaria tablets. The map says "advised" but you can only take Malarone for 2 months and as I am going to be in "it" for three months. I need to start as late as possible as I am pretty sure it is going to be worse later on.
Not being a huge town it was easy to find the hotel. Again it was an off sight parking lot, but not far. It had been a full day on the bike so, shower, beer, dinner and bed were all that I wanted.
The next day town was in full Parade mode, obviously another key date in their history (but I can't tell you what specifically).
On the way in to town yesterday I was following too close to the car in front of me and didn't see a bloody great chunk of wood in the road. I ran straight over it. Having checked the tyres, the rear looked about ready to change. Rear tyre number 4! I had bought one in Lima so wandered around town to find someone to fit it. Having found a car place that would do it, I went back, took the wheel off, grabbed the new spare and got a taxi back to the tyre place. Five minutes later it was all done. Yet again they would not take any money for doing it. Another example of just how generous these people are.It must be they way they are brought up - to go home feeling good about themselves rather than make a few extra Soles. I know a few people who could benefit from that attitude.
Another early start was called for as I was heading across the border to Ecuador. It is best to assume several hours to get through the controls. The ride out of Peru was also a ride out of the desert. The land rises and greens as it does so. By the time you get to the border it is green and fertile land.
I tried to use up my Soles by filling up with fuel at the last town, not only did I not use up my Soles I am not sure I was given 90 octane fuel. The bike didn't seem to like the new stuff.
I had a great time in Peru but was glad to be moving in to a new territory.
Macara is a quiet crossing and I was first in the queue, a queue of one! The various officers (immigration and customs) were pleasant and chatty, they even took my camera to take pictures of themselves.
Everything was going well until the Customs man was trying to complete the exit papers for the bike - on his computer. Lots of huffing and puffing, his PC was not playing ball. It was funny to watch him shake the mouse vigorously on its mat, obviously hoping it would loosen the computers hold on the information. He resorted to "turning it off and on again", the international language of computers. It worked, so the next thing was to photocopy my passport. The Photocopier decided to play up. He tried opening the paper tray many times but that didn't help so he just resigned himself to technology, gave me back my passport with a handshake and "suerte" (good luck).
The second thing was the lack of Speed Humps. Peru has about three in every village you pass through & they are so big you can't ignore them. It is a pleasure to drive through villages now as you can look around rather than lining up the next bloody Hump. I do try to be considerate with my speed through the towns and villages so I don't think they make a difference.
The roads were not so clever, well not to start with. it was a string of pot holes joined together with a little tarmac. This went on for about 20-30 kms. Rising all the time and eventually disappearing inside the clouds that hung over the mountains. It was thick fog, what with that and the state of the road made it very slow going and not much fun.
As luck would have it, we came out of the clouds and not long after came to brand new tarmac, perfectly smooth and lovely twisting road around the mountainside. It lasted about 30-40 kms and then returned to the pothole emporium! Why it has been done I have no idea, it doesn't join two towns together, it is just there - great piece of road though! The temperature gauge was reading 33 degrees at this point (up from 16 degrees whilst in the clouds).
On the journey I was stopped at two military checkpoints. Smiles, handshakes and a wave goodbye. I am not sure why they are there but they certainly didn't hold me up.
The road changed again to good tarmac so the last 60 kms was very pleasant.......until it started to rain! I haven't had rain in South America for so long I can't remember it. It wasn't too bad and because it was so warm the roads never got particularly wet.
Loja came in to view a full 7 hours after I left Piura which according to the hotel owner "you must have flown" was pretty quick. how impressed would he have been if it hadn't taken and hour at the border?
The hotel is Shabby chic (without the chic) but the family seemed nice enough. I signed in and he asked for cash. Ahhh, "I haven't had a chance to get any yet, where is the nearest bank ATM"?
I was pointed in the direction of a supermarket a few blocks away.
It wasn't just a supermarket it was s shopping mall! It was rather disturbing to find such a beast down here, they belong in North America. For pity's sake it even had a KFC.
I found the ATM and got some money out. "Oh bugger, it has given me US Dollars". Thinking I must have pressed the wrong button I asked if there was a "Cambio" in the mall to change the dollars in to local currency. No but there is a bank. Great, I queued and eventually get to the counter.
"Please can I change these for Ecuadorean Pesos" (I didn't actually know what Ecuador uses but I thought pesos would be close enough). She looked back blankly at me. So I tried again with lots of ruffling of notes and repeating my flawed Spanish. Eventually another lady at the bank came over and said
"What do you want, speak English".
What a relief (the queue behind was getting restless).
"The ATM gave me Us Dollars and I wanted Ecuadorean money".
She just looked at me (as blankly as the first lady) and then said ..................
"That is what we use in Ecuador".
Yes I did feel a right Prat! Another Top Travel TIp: When travelling, read something about the bloody country you are visiting before you get there!
The day didn't get any better. I went back to the Hotel with my Dollars and threw my stuff in the room. I went to the bathroom and it was not clean - I will spare you the details. Even after they had supposedly cleaned it, I was not impressed.
The advertised wifi didn't work, their grandchildren were screaming blue murder for most of the evening and then it cam to dinner. I went down and was offered a set meal - Chicken and rice (it is always chicken with rice). Ok great. Two minutes later "actually we haven't got any food". It was past nine and I was past caring so I had a beer, read my book went to bed. I had already made up my mind I was moving on in the morning.
At about mid night the owner was banging on my door "come and move your bike!!!
When I had arrived I parked it in there garage and put it where they asked, no problems. But they obviously had a late arrival who wanted to put his car in the garage too. They didn't see what the problem was of getting me out of bed to move the bike. I flipped! The only time on the whole trip I have been met with surly indifference.
I left at 7:30 the next morning, shaking my head at the Four stars on the front of the building. not quite the way I had wanted to be introduced to Ecuador.
my pleasure, i hope it is of some help!
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