Monday 7 May 2012

Elqui Vallee

My room was freezing and so a hot shower was the best way to start the day - hot water but no towels! My camping towel was in room 1 in the bike panniers so a shirt had to do. Next discovery - no breakfast, not even a cup of tea. Not a great start so decided to get on the bike and find somewhere for breakfast up the Valley.

The sun was shining although not especially warm but the scenery was spectacular. High mountains of many shades of pink, red, brown and grey.

Near Vicuna is an Observatory called Mamalluca where I have a night visit booked (although it is proving troublesome with the dates - it never happened which i am gutted about) So I rode up the gravel/dirt road to see it in daylight.


The road goes through a few villages perched on the side of the mountain, and charming they are too with some very old adobe buildings with some not so old satellite dishes!


All the way up the winding road to find the gate was locked so I couldn't actually get to the Observatory but. the views down the valley were worth the trip. It is green and laid out in organised rows of vines, especially for the production of Pisco (a sort of brandy). From Mamalluca you can also see several other Observatories across the valley - Tololo and Gemini. Their domes blaze away in the sunlight but as usual my photography is not up to the task but if you look closely you will see them! These mountains are about 2,500 - 3,500 meters. further north there will be some over 6,000 meters and some roads at over 4,000.


Back down on the valley floor and the road takes you towards the Argentinian border, although I didn't go quite that far. It is a pretty modest river that gives the valley its verdant growth

There are plenty of nice villages along the way and I did find some food and drink for my brunch. Most villages in this part of the world have a few dogs that like to bark and chase motorbikes! Most of the population must be engaged in the cultivation of the grapes and at some points you get an intense aroma of fruit and pass huge areas of red grapes laid out in the sun to dry.

I got back to Vicuna and went for a stroll around the Plaza de Armas where the locals were enjoying their Sunday. The best sight was a guy selling pink Candy Floss from a converted Tricycle - he was pedalling like furry to whip the floss in to shape! Then a siren went off - for the Fire Brigade I assume as there was a massive pall of black smoke in the mountains from the direction of Mamalucca. I don't smoke so it wasn't me!
I dont think i can take more nights in this hotel so will move on tomorrow - north from here is the Atacama desert!

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